SUNDAY 12th JULY 2009 (ISTANBUL - BASILICA CISTERN)

SUNDAY 12th JULY 2009

Last day in Istanbul. We were ready and wanting to get back on the bike but felt we should take one more day to visit 'New Istanbul'.

The day began with Nurullar (our carpet man) serenading me outside our window with his 'air' violin. A good way to start any day - laughing.

By accident we learnt about an underground cistern worthy of a visit. And we weren't disappointed. The Basilica CISTERN dates back to 527-565. Water is channeled from the Bulgarian Hills and stored in this 140 x 70 metre 'well'. There are 336 marble columns with thousands of fish swimming at their base. When 'tap-water' became popular this structure was forgotten and only rediscovered when historical research became more common. Buckets were lowered through well-holes in order to obtain the water.

We caught the train and traveled to it's furthest point then caught the underground tram up to the top of the hill, the beginning of ISTIKLAL street. It's a long walk and we started off excited but it soon became like another street in another city, except for the underwear shop...!!!

We much prefer the down-and-out market places. Fortunately for us the street eventually narrowed and became far more interesting....and STEEP. It was the home of the music bazaar with dozens of instrument shops (we were thinking of you Mr. Piles). It was hard enough walking 'down' this street and I wondered why anyone would choose to walk 'up' it - but they did.

From here we crossed the Galata Bridge being careful not to get hooked on any of the hundreds of fishing lines being used. Ferry boats by the dozens were going back and forth and people by the thousands doing the same - it never stopped.

Once on the other side we made our way through the bus station gathering place (again hundreds of people) but nothing prepared us for the underground walkway to get from one side of the road to the other. Paul went first and I lost him within 3 seconds...!!! I figured he'd wait at the other end. It must have taken 10 minutes just to get through this small passage!

Our aim was to revisit the Spice Bazaar (or Egyptian Bazaar) and glad we did - our noses were in heaven. Being Sunday the Grand Bazaar was closed and it was good to walk up through the narrow laneways completely empty of people. Once at the top of the hill we followed the train tracks back down to 'home'. On the way we found ourselves at a dedicated 'smoking' house with about 100 people puffing away on their water pipes. The air was sweet (and thick) with the scent of smoke.

Late afternoon Paul checked the bike in readiness for our departure tomorrow. Before long everyone from the street gathered around. Even Nurallah got his hands dirty helping with checking oils, etc. He loved it. The bike was even cleaned...!!!

Our evening stroll took us only two blocks from where we were staying - here we discovered a whole new world of cafe's, smoke rooms, hostels and a very active street life. We had no idea it was even there. And that's the beauty of Istanbul. She never stops revealing her secrets, even though they are only a hands-width away...