WEDNESDAY 29th JULY 2009 (POSTSCRIPT)

POSTSCRIPT




Don't know if it's been an interesting ride for you but it certainly has been for us!




Full of frustration and at times despair. Some good memories though of fabulous people and places.




Would we trade any of it .... probably not. It wasn't a 'holiday' in any sense of the word but we certainly learned a lot about a different way of life. We saw things we would never have seen had the trip gone without a hitch. We experienced some of the difficulties people have to live with which has given us a new appreciation of our life at home. It also taught us a lot about being 'patient' and that all good things come to those who wait.




The HORS - do we love him or hate him? Of course we love him. We knew by doing this trip on an 'older' bike that we would have inherent difficulties, no question. That's part of the territory.


We look forward to his arrival at home and to welcome him into the stable.




One thing that kept us going when the chips were down were your 'stupid' comments (smiley face). We loved all of them. Thanks for that.

TUESDAY 28th JULY 2009 (LAST DAY in IZMIR)

TUESDAY 28th JULY 2009

LAST DAY. Had our final meeting with Lutfu & Cihan re shipping details then had to go to the NOTERS office to give Lutfu 'Power of Attorney' to finish the bike transfer on our behalf. The HORS leaves IZMIR on Friday on a ship called YM INCREMENT, bound for Singapore, then Melbourne.

(Lutfu & Cihan - good blokes)



It was now nearly 1.00pm. Back to Otel Balca to pack and then we had a 'free' afternoon before flying out. It was a coolish 41 degrees (thankfully the weather was cooler for our last day). We caught a bus to revisit the Oriental Market then made our way to the 'Feribot' Station.

For our last afternoon we decided to cruise the harbour from pier to pier and enjoy the sights and the gentle sea breeze. A good choice.

We even got to the point where we forgot we had a plane to catch such was the relaxing effect of the Feribot.

We caught a taxi to the airport, about a thirty minute drive, found where we had to be and settled in before flying to Istanbul at 8.00pm.
Flying into and out of Istanbul was magical. Such a beautiful sight at night - more so because we could identify many local landmarks.
Dubai, Hong Kong, Melbourne, Hobart - here we come.

MONDAY 27th JULY 2009 (IZMIR CUSTOMS OFFICE)

MONDAY 27th JULY 2009


Last FULL day in Turkey. We were to meet with Lutfu late morning to finalise shipping arrangements for The HORS but that was soon changed to early afternoon. All we could do was wait for the call and be ready for action when it comes.


At 2.45 pm we learnt that the Otel phone system was out! The Shipping agents had been trying to reach us for over two hours when it was decided that the receptionist should knock on our door to see if we were about. We were - we had been waiting for the call.


We had to hurry but luckily for us Lutfu's office was only three blocks away. We went straight to the Customs Department near the wharf and this is where we had to hold our breath and hope all will go well. As expected much paperwork needed filling out and signing, all of it unreadable.


Lutfu acted as our translator and despite trying to get the best deals for us there were still 'extra' charges imposed which will line the pockets of the relevant persons. This is so unfair but there's nothing we can do about it. All we want is that final signature to say 'YES, the bike can go to Australia'.


Once the paperwork was complete we then sat for nearly two hours waiting for the Customs Inspector to inspect the contents of our boxes. Even though WE had to wait for THEM that also cost us extra as it was almost the end of the day...!!! They were probably out back having a cuppa!


BUT, all documents were signed which meant we could go to stage two - go through this whole process again on the dock side. We piled in to the battered old trucks and away we went. Very strange following a box knowing that your bike/sidecar is inside.


We entered the port gates and all went well, once charges were paid for opening 'this' gate and 'that' gate! But, the boxes were left 'inside' a locked shed, out of the intense sun and we were happy with that. The necessary information was stapled to the box and that was that. We said our goodbyes as that's it until the bike arrives in Australia.



The HORS leaves IZMIR on Friday and travels to Melbourne via Singapore. Should arrive in about 4-5 weeks.


We then went back to the office to complete the payment side of things. We were glad the Port involvement was completed and relatively painless. It's not quite finished as the Customs people have held Paul's passport to complete some more paperwork early tomorrow morning. One more quick meeting with Lutfu and the deal is done. It was well after 7.00pm by the time we got home.

SUNDAY 26th JULY 2009 (EPHESUS)

SUNDAY 26th JULY 2009

Up super early in order to catch a taxi to the 'OTOGAR' (main bus station). Our 8.00 am bus eventually departed 8.45 am for which we were grateful as at that time of the morning it was already HOT and no air-conditioning in the bus while it sat.




The drive to Celcuk took 45 minutes. Its here we caught a smaller bus to EPHESUS, an archaeological gem dating back 6,000 years BC. It was an ancient Greek city partly developed because of its sea trade and location. Nowadays the sea has receded 6 kilometers from the ruins.






It is thought this is where the gospel of John was written, the tomb of St. John lies here;
'Alexander the Great' liberated all Greek cities and gave privileges to Ephesians building a new temple; Cleopatra hung out and numerous other historical facts that we've only ever read about -many happened here. Lots of familiar names, but I've forgotten most of my history!

It is one of the best places in the world to see what life was really like in the Roman times. So much of it is still intact. I imagine so much has yet to be discovered - unbelievable to see. Apparently 200,000 people lived here in its heyday. It's so incredible to realize that people lived here all those years ago and that documentation still exists about what and how life was. The most fabulous facade on-site was that of the Library of Celsus.




We were gobbed-smacked from the moment we entered to the moment we left nearly 4 hours later. We particularly liked eaves-dropping as the 'guides' spoke to their various groups. One particular story we loved was when all the respected 'gentlemen' of the time told their wives they were going to the library. They went to read history, geography and literature. Unbeknown to their wives there was an underground tunnel from the library to the bordello close by. Turns out the 'gentlemen' were studying history, geography, literature AND anatomy...!!!


It was great to be able to take our time, stop and soak in the atmosphere. The more you look the more you see and you can only see if you STOP. Incredible place.
























From here we caught a taxi to the top of the nearby Mount Coressus to visit 'Mother Mary's House' (or House of the Holy Virgin). We almost didn't go but thought because we are so close we should. This single building had more of an impact on us than the whole of Ephesus and we were so pleased we visited. Despite the large numbers of tourists we were able to see and photograph the chapel without anyone in sight and enjoy the lovely trees and gardens in the vicinity.

It is believed the Mother of Jesus Christ spent her last days here. The world was divided for preaching following the persecution of the Apostles in Jerusalem following Christ's death and so St. John moved with his mother to Ephesus.
There are facts according to the scriptures and facts confirmed historically re the authenticity of this place. There is mention in both Christian and Muslim faiths.

Back to Celcuk we visited St. John's Church (signposted St. JEAN's) then I set out on my mission to find the many stork nests that lived on the aquaducts in this city. And I wasn't disappointed - there are many. Our first day out on The HORS showed me my first ever stork nest and I regretted we didn't stop. I have seen the occasional nest since but here, in Selcuk, I had the time to stop and stare and enjoy these beautiful birds.


We also visited a ceramics factory - all 200,000 pieces were stunning. We were shown how the items are made and the hand-painting process. We were particularly taken with the ancient wine server. Would have liked one of those but couldn't warrant the cost - hugely expensive.


I continued to wander about staring skywards looking for and finding many stork nests, the smile on my face HUGE. Despite this I even found a tortoise at ground level and watched him amble ever so slowly to some undercover scrub. All this in the middle of a city (population 40,000) is fantastic.

Because we traveled by bus to Celcuk we decided to catch the train back to IZMIR to experience something different. We boarded at 7.20pm but no-one mentioned it would be 'standing-room' only. Half an hour into the trip we were able to get a seat (thank goodness) and settled in to watch the evening lights of IZMIR pass as we made our way through the suburbs.

We had quite a walk back to Otel Balca but despite our tiredness we did enjoy the evening breeze and now that we are orientated to the city knew we weren't THAT far from home.

A fascinating day - history, nature, religion and dirty stories from days gone by...

SATURDAY 25th JULY 2009 (CRATING THE HORS)

SATURDAY 25th JULY 2009




Lutfu arrived at Otel BALCA 11.00am and together we all rode to the 'Oto Sanayi Sitesi' which is where the HORS' crate was going to be custom built. When asked would he like a helmet, Lutfu responded by saying, "Maybe not today, it's hot!" He enjoyed riding on the pillion seat and now intends to buy himself another bike.








We arrived at 'AGACKAKAN' where the bike and sidecar will be separated and boxed. There was timber EVERYWHERE. We met Evza KANDEMIR who will be in charge of the boxing process. Our job was to separate the chair from the bike, clean the hard-to-get areas (because of the chair), disconnect the battery and have the petrol removed from the fuel tank.




When all was set we left Evza and his crew to their work and went back to the Otel.

We made the decision to catch a bus to Ephesus tomorrow so we decided to catch a bus to the OTOGAR (bus station) to find out from where we will leave and at what time. Good thing too - it took us over an hour to find our bus! There are hundreds of buses coming and going from every corner of Turkey at all times of the day. We found out the necessary info then caught another bus back to Alsancuk (the area where we're staying). The whole process took three hours.

We caught up with Vinie at the Smoking House on the boulevard and enjoyed a chat while watching the sun slowly sink into the ocean - always nice to see. The temperature was high thirties but the breeze off the water made it all very pleasant. We bid our farewell, walked along the boulevard, watched the yachts sail, the horse and carts coming and going and people with their dogs out for a walk.











Another good feed at the end of the day made all the more enjoyable as we listened to John MAYER in the background. Beats traditional Turk music any day...

FRIDAY 24th JULY 2009 (CLEANING THE HORS)

FRIDAY 24th JULY 2009


As a result of walking for eight hours yesterday, today was a non-day. We slept through most of it! However, we did manage to get ourselves together enough to meet with Cihan to discuss more details re shipping the bike.


We learnt that they now need to 'box' the HORS tomorrow, not Monday as first thought. This suits us better as Monday was leaving it all a bit late but puts a halt to our plans of riding to EPHESUS to see the city ruins.


This news put some energy into the bones and we had to get busy and CLEAN the bike.

What is considered TOO much of an oil leak? When the OTO-WASH wont go near it...!!! Paul was told to go away and clean the oil THEN they would steam wash it. Not much help to us (and there wasn't THAT much oil on it).


Frustration level was high as they HAD the degreaser, but wouldn't sell, we couldn't find any to buy (have been looking for a few days) and so The HORS made its way back to its stable - up a one way street the wrong way...!!!


Back to 'home' where the process began of manually cleaning the bike with rags and petrol and lots of washing powder and water. The bike came up very well. It was sprayed down with CRC to protect the surface a little during the shipping process.




We found a GREAT place to eat (ALIN's) - the first meal we've enjoyed since being in IZMIR. It cost us 36,650,000 Turkish Lira (on paper the most we've ever spent on a meal!). In reality about $30 Aussie dollars. We will be revisiting.

THURSDAY 23rd JULY 2009 (IZMIR - ORIENTAL MARKET)

THURSDAY 23rd JULY 2009


Our mornings have slowed down a lot, now that we don't have to make miles anymore. Sort of miss that routine - the dread of packing and wondering what drama will unfold during the day.

We had to meet with Lutfu and Cihan at midday to discuss further The HORS's shipping arrangements. So far we are quite impressed with them.


We decided to walk along the boulevard (not as hot today - maybe 35 degrees) where a slight breeze was blowing. We had only ever walked part way and so decided to explore further a field. Every three or so blocks the atmosphere changed completely. At one end sat the up-market restaurants with the other end being the smoking houses. We walked past several large tug boats and thought it amazing that you had to step over the mooring lines to get to the tables and chairs. We watched children jumping off the wharf and doing what children do best. They were funny and imaginative using empty water bottles tied around their waists as floaties!









We then found ourselves at the Oriental Market and were pleased to be back in what we call a 'real' shopping area. The westernized shopping centres have no character whatsoever. The 'bazaar' on the other hand is old and fascinating, more interactive, interesting smells and colour galore. We sat on cushioned seats for a drink and before we knew it Paul was inside a cafe being taught how to make Turkish coffee. It looks like and has the consistency of warm chocolate icing but he liked it. We enjoyed this market far more than the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. The shop owners let you browse and touch without harassing you about the fact that that particular item is the BEST bargain in the whole world. They are all smiles, polite, patient and not pushy at all. It made the 'looking' experience a pleasure. There is always an exception to the rule though and I walked out leaving Paul alone to figure out how to escape!





It didn't take long for a couple of hours to pass at the Oriental Market (with not one purchase made) before we wandered in the direction of home. We nearly always took the narrow, covered market streets as they are more interesting. It's in the 'open' streets where the fruit and vegies are and the smell fills your nose with such fresh, wonderful scents. Can't say the same about the meat though...!!! And watching the bread-makers roll and flip and twirl their dough's before placing in an open fire-kiln was excellent. When they know you are watching they do their best to elaborate their routine.


We did take a wrong turn which took us out of our way a bit (not so happy as the legs were wanting to fall off!) BUT we did find the motorcycle shop area so Paul was happy with that. Nothing of interest though and can you believe one sales person hadn't heard of DUCATI...!!! Italian bikes just don't feature here - it must have been a translation issue though...surely he's heard of Ducati.


We got home just after 8.00pm...
went to our room and never moved a muscle from then on (couldn't..!!). We watched a crap movie on TV (it was in English though and we are hungry for the English language) so that made it bearable. We have our stockpile of muesli (and beer) and that's what ended up on the menu for dinner.



It takes a few days to even begin to get to know any area so sometimes just staying put for a while instead of traveling all the time is a good thing. There are a few places we've been holed up for several days at a time because of either 'issues' or breakdowns and these are the places we will remember the best. Another good day done and dusted.

WEDNESDAY 22nd JULY 2009 (SORTING OUR GEAR)

WEDNESDAY 22nd JULY 2009


Not much to report. We afforded a sleep-in (think the heat is causing that plus nearly two months of S-T-R-E-S-S related fun!). Our mission today, after speaking again with Lutfu & Cihan (Turkey shippers) was to itemize EVERYTHING that will be crated to Australia including all our personal effects in the side-car.


We needed to sort through our stuff so the whole afternoon was spent sifting through the myriad of papers, clothes, bike gear, etc that can be shipped home. In our mind it's just a few things but when it comes to itemizing everything the list was quite long...!!!


We met up with Lutfu & Cihan again late in the afternoon to progress the shipping process. We also found out the bike will be crated on Monday and taken to the port which mean our weekend will be free to perhaps ride further south and check out EPHESUS, which is one of the ancient Wonders of the World established 6,000 BC - something to look forward to.


Our evening walk is always interesting and we always choose a different direction to explore. This time we found an unusual twin-seat Lambretta covered in dust - it had been sitting about for a long time. There are many scooters about, perfect for the narrow streets that need negotiating. Road bikes are mainly Korean and Japanese. We've only seen one Harley, one police BMW and nothing Italian.

TUESDAY 21st JULY 2009 (LUTFU & CIHAN)

TUESDAY 21st JULY 2009

The mission today was to find a 'Turkey shipper' and find out the process involved for shipping The HORS back to Australia.

Even though we still have a week before flying out we thought it best to find out how it will all work instead of touring further south. There are still many things within reach that we'd like to see but have to prioritize at this point. Maybe we will have some time later.

Paul left late morning with map in hand and rough directions to a couple of freight forwarders but returned within the hour. He said it was impossible to find the actual offices amongst the myriad of narrow streets and multiple doors, none of which has any signage. He found one of the buildings but unable to find the entrance. I went back with him later and we both had a good look but neither of us could find the way in - couldn't believe it...!!!



Paul then got on to the internet and researched 'Turkey shippers'. He settled on a particular company (SENOLSUN) and went to visit. Again, finding the entry was difficult but eventually found the door that led into the building. He met Lutfu and Cihan and there was an immediate rapport between the three and shipping details were discussed.



In a city of about 4 million people we thought it odd that the ONLY person we'd got to know (Vinie) lived in a narrow apartment building, the same building that the 'Turkey shippers' worked out of. Now there's an omen...!!! And Vinie didn't even know they were there!

We were happy with Lutfu & Cihan and left them with their homework. We spent a pleasant evening walking along the ocean boulevard watching the 'feribot' come and go. The boulevard is several kilometers long, surrounded by city lights and water reflections. Coupled with temperatures in the low thirties it made for a very enjoyable evening.

MONDAY 20th JULY 2009 (KUCUKKUYU to IZMIR))

MONDAY 20th JULY 2009


After yesterday's heat we hit the road early to get some miles under our tyres BEFORE it got too hot. It did get to 48 degrees so it was a wise move. It was probably our most boring day ever. No breakdowns, no dramas, no adventure (which is a good thing). Just mile after mile after mile of stinkin' hot bitumen. There was one item of interest though - the HORS clocked over 2,000 kilometers.

We rode for the first few hours (no probs) then once it hit midday we could only ride in half hour bursts before the bike (and oil) just got too hot. Not to mention us. Just when we thought it couldn't get any hotter we would be hit with a heat wave that almost vaporized us...!!!

During the morning we rode past hundreds of zillions of olive trees. Olive Oil is the staple means of income in this area.

We parked up under some trees at a truckies stop and when it came time to roll one of the old fellows stood up and saluted us as we departed. He obviously liked The HORS.

We then rode only another half-hour before having to stop again, this time on a grassy area with the sea right alongside. The HORS was grateful, we were grateful. And here we stayed for at least two hours.

We then made a last ditched effort to get to IZMIR stopping on the outskirts to get our map out and get orientated. Before we even took our helmets off two bottles of ice-cold water appeared and at the end of the arms were two fellows, all smiles and oohhing and aarrhing at the bike. When they found out we were from Australia four more bottles of water and two bunches of grapes were bestowed on us. Gratefully accepted too as we were exhausted from the heat. People are so incredibly friendly in Turkey.

We said our goodbyes and made a bee-line for the port area as this is where we will ship the bike home from. We then weaved our way to the city centre which turned out much easier than expected. Again we stopped to get our map out to get directions and find accommodation. At that precise moment a fellow bike rider came out of his apartment building, complimented the bike and offered to take us to an Otel. He offered us his place but said it wasn't a safe area for the bike because of gypsy's. He rode a Yamaha Dragstar, hugely popular here. We followed him a short way through the narrow streets, that is until he rode through the bollards and we couldn't...!!! Vinie came back laughing. Reverse gear has come in handy on several occasions! He then took Paul on the back and together they went to check out a few places rather than ride the HORS through streets almost too narrow for his hips!

We booked in to Otel BALCA (very nice rooms and a toilet that works - YAY) then went and met Vinie at his uncle's cafe for drinks. 'Drinks' here always refers to Cay (chai), Turkish coffee or water. It's rare to see alcohol. After an hour's supping we said our goodbyes and thanks and went to unpack and get settled into IZMIR.

We're not terribly impressed with the food. There are approximately 400,000 kebab shops and if they don't serve kebabs then there's 101 other ways of serving the same horrible food. We'll have to do some serious searching for something better tomorrow!

SUNDAY 19th JULY 2009 (ECEABAT to KUCUKKUYU)

SUNDAY 19th JULY 2009


After a brilliant day yesterday (ANZAC Cove) we weren't in a hurry to go anywhere. We had actually relaxed for possibly the first time on this whole trip. BUT, we had to continue to make miles because time is running out and if the HORS has another colic attack we may not make our destination!




We eventually left 'Crowded House' at 11.00am and within 30 minutes were on the ferry to KEPEZ on the far shores. We gave Canakkale a miss because it's a BIG town, it's very hot and Kepez is just a little further downstream. The ferry boat ride has always been good. You can see both sides of the shores easily (not a very wide channel) and we always wonder who would give way to who as it's such a busy shipping channel but the ferry boats seem to dodge in and around the big ships easily.

We were also secretly happy that we were 'making miles' without actually riding The HORS...!!! A shocking admission...but true...!!! The ferries are very popular as a way of getting from A to B as petrol costs $3.00 AUS a litre.


The terrain was hilly with low scrub and scattered pine trees. The only potentially interesting thing we rode past was the turn-off to TROY (the Trojan Horse) but it was far too hot to consider doing more miles than necessary. Turned out to be a good decision. We did pass a replica TROY horse so was satisfied with that.


It was EXTREMELY hot and within half-an-hour we had to pull off the road and park-up in the shade of a tree. The engine was far too hot. And there we stayed for an hour before hitting the bitumen again.







We only rode another half-an-hour before having to stop once again because of the heat. The bike was 'smokin' (and I don't mean speed...!!!).

We rode into EZINE where we hoped we could rest the bike and ourselves in the shade. We found the perfect spot and spent the next two-and-a-half hours here. We just had to wait till the intensity of heat passed before contemplating riding again. We did what all good Turks do (every day of the week) - sit in the shade, drink tea and play board games. Nearly every cafe is chokka-full of blokes drinking tea - no women to be seen.



We hit the road again, still hot, but we were to turn off the highway and ride along our first 'Adventure Road'. Our map of Turkey has sections of road indicating 'Adventure' and in this case, that word turned out to be a bit of an understatement. We were heading to ASSOS and were enjoying the ups and downs and all the corners the road offered. We were a little bit impressed with The HORS too as he seemed to manage it all okay. The hills got steeper and steeper, the corners sharper and the road more narrow - not always a good combination for a sidecar outfit....but for all those people with big road-trail bikes this would be brilliant.



Eventually we couldn't believe what was before us. The hillside town of BEHRAMKALE-ASSOS was as old as old can get - hard to distinguish the buildings from the rocks. It's an ancient Greek village dating back to the 6th Century, complete with the ruins of temples and an amphitheatre. It wasn't hard to imagine the people in their white robes and carrying their water jugs - just like the movies. Actually, not like the movies - like REAL life. It really was like that. A fabulous place.


We rode further along the road and that's when life got 'REAL' interesting. Only a few metres along we discovered the road drops TWO kilometers to the Aegean coastline - NO safety barriers, uneven cobblestone road surface, about 4 million cars wanting 95% of the road and the only thing between us and the edge was a row of thistles!


I was SCREAMING as sitting in the sidecar I was the one almost going over the edge of the road, Paul was SCREAMING as he fought The HORS trying to keep it on the road as it seemed that each car that passed had a personal mission to run us over the edge. End result - I got out and walked, happy to leave Paul to his fate...(not really). Stupid thing was....the drop-off to the water ended about 20 meters further along but that didn't stop Paul riding to the bottom as I waved my stick in the air cursing trying to get his attention...!!!

BUT...on the good side, this is when I found the amphitheatre. It was right on a corner and difficult to see whilst negotiating road conditions, but on foot I couldn't miss it. Oh well, no need to hurry to the bottom. Paul can wait...!!! I went in to have a look but just as I was about to enter I heard the familiar 'chug-a-lug' of The HORS coming back up the hill. I immediately forgot all the nasty things I was thinking and thought how nice - Paul has come back to get me. That wasn't the case though - the road turned out to be a dead-end...!!! We both ended up laughing.

Paul had to use all his effort to handle the bike on the way back UP as the weight of our gear on the sidecar made the front wheel VERY light. I watched in dismay as I saw the front wheel leave the ground on a few occasions!

We both went to explore the amphitheatre and were amazed at the construction of it all. Half of it lay in ruins as ground subsidence has destroyed the layout of the steps; the other half is remarkably intact, the view stunning.
We were most pleased that THAT road was now behind us, but satisfied that we had ridden at least 'one' adventure road.


From here we made our way to KUCUKKUYU with the only problem being we were back at the top of the hill and needed to get back down to the water level. This time I didn't get out of the sidecar - the road made a more gentle approach to the coast. It was very pleasant riding along at water level but glad we weren't camping - very crowded and all dirt - very little grass to be seen.


We stopped at a small roadside stall - Paul needed a beer and I had an ice-cream. We met the most delightful kid who chatted away to us non-stop. We couldn't understand each other but eye contact spoke volumes and we just loved him. His name was Furkan TOPGU. We took off, got a few metres up the road, did a uu-ee (not sure how to spell that!) went back and gave him a koala with an Australian flag. He was wrapt. We left him with a big smile and lots of waves.



On we rode till dusk arriving at the Aydin MOTEL about 8.45pm. Dinner was provided (which was awful), the toilet didn't work (which was awful) but we did have a large verandah on which to sit and enjoy the view of the surrounding hills and night lights of the city. Temperature had cooled but it was still 30 degrees...!!!

SATURDAY 18th JULY 2009 (ANZAC COVE)

SATURDAY 18th JULY 2009

Today was one we had been really looking forward to...and let's face it, it's taken us long enough to get here!

Today we rode to ANZAC Cove where over 8,ooo Australian soldiers died during World War One. And when we arrived it definitely felt like we were on Australian soil.

The whole area is now a National Park to preserve the memory of what happened all those years ago and to make the area a peaceful final resting place for all those soldiers (on all sides) who died there.

The first Memorial we saw read -

"Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives; you are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours. You, the mothers, who sent their sons from far away countries, wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well." (Ataturk)

We were very lucky to see Anzac Cove in total peace and quiet. Very tranquil, very beautiful. The history books came alive when standing on the beach where the soldiers came ashore looking up at the high ridges which are almost impenetrable.

We spent a long time at Anzac Cove, walked along the beach, studied all the inscription plaques and

imagined the Dawn Service held each Anzac Day, not quite believing we were actually here.

We then rode to the ridge where many of the memorials, statues and cemeteries were. The remains of trenches were everywhere to be seen. On one side of the road were the ANZACS, on the other, the TURKS (the front line where death was imminent). They were literally only eight meters apart from each other.

We visited Lone Pine Cemetery and I found the name of a distant relative on one of the plaques on the Memorial Wall. It was very hot but we were able to take our time, sit in the shade and soak up the views - very hard to imagine this beautiful place in war time.

The HORS performed faultlessly today but we only pottered about doing 20 kph as seemed only right. Of course we stopped at many places of interest avoiding the dozens of tourist bus's that frequented this road during the day.

We thought we'd visit the south of the Gelibolu Peninsula but it took us nearly all day to have a good look around the small area pertaining to OUR soldiers.

On the way 'home' we ended up doing a little off-road riding into a sunflower field. We ended up in some most unnatural positions so didn't venture too far. It got very rough.

For once we had our evening meal at a reasonable hour, walked along the waterfront, watched the ferry's come and go and avoided the wedding that was in progress at the far end. A GREAT day.