MONDAY 6th JULY 2009 (LEAVING ODESSA)

MONDAY 6th JULY 2009


You might just be wondering how the drama unfolded...well let me tell you.


Paul wanted to (and needed to) be at the Ferry booking office by 9.00am (quite a walk from the Hotel). Today is our only chance to leave Ukraine with The HORS and we still don't know if we will be allowed to take it.

He was first in line and it wasn't long before a small crowd gathered behind him. Two tickets to Istanbul please. No problem ... but because Paul didn't have the correct money he had to go to a money change booth and then go to the back of the line...!!! Another hour passed before he had our Ferry tickets in his hands. At least WE are on. Now, what about the bike....."you must come back at midday about the moto". Okay, keep us hanging...we can handle it...!!!

At midday Paul was back in line and when it came to his turn the booking office window was closed and the curtain drawn. It was lunch time...!!! He sat and waited. When they opened he managed to get The HORS booked on. YAY - so far so good. Our concern being will the correct documentation be ready - there is no going back now. The bike cost $250 U.S. and is payable to the ships officer when loaded. SHIT....Paul only had $240 U.S. - funny how they wont take their own currency...!!! Five banks later and that problem was solved.

We then went to get The HORS from the Underground Secure Parking area. We are very worried about riding because of the high number of Police and the fact that we DIDN'T have ANY documentation or technical passports with us - Customs had ALL our papers! That wouldn't matter to the Police though and a sure bet we would have to line their pockets with lots of Hryvnia's...!!! However, all was okay.


It felt so good to be back on the bike and have the wind on our faces, even that short distance. We packed...there was no way we weren't going to be on that dock early. And aren't we glad. Soon after we arrived the wharf gates were shut. We'd never been so pleased to be BEHIND bars ever! It is 4.30pm and the ship sails at 9.00pm - tons of time to chase up what needs to be done. We were constantly in a state of nervousness as any number of things may or may not come together in order for us to leave. We also watched in dismay as large storm clouds loomed...the only clouds we've seen in Odessa during our whole stay...if we ever get out of here maybe the Black Sea crossing is going to be just as traumatic...!!! I hate boats.

We were instructed to go to Passport Control - along the wharf, up the road, across the bridge, into the furtherest building and down two flights of stairs. Whew. We were only there 5 minutes before a phone call came saying to meet Oksana at the bike. Back we went, but no sign of Oks. A rather officious guard then instructed us to take all our luggage back to Passport Control. WHAT....we were just told to come back here...!!! I am not happy...it's a heavy load for me to carry, but there was NO CHOICE. With both walking sticks in hand away we trudged but before we got very far the guard turned up in his beat-up old Lada and drove us there - I was very grateful.

And so, there we are back in Passport Control. Again the phone rang and Paul had to meet Oks at the bike. BLOODY HELL...he went and I stayed with the gear. This time she was there and went through all the documentation with Paul, all the stamps that were required and stated that everything was in order. Oh joy...but we were still wary.

When it was our turn to go through Passport Control Paul was locked into a cubicle (with gates both ends and slanted mirrors behind) and I wasn't allowed in, even though every other couple went through together! Then those famous words resonated throughout the whole building..."WE HAVE A PROBLEM". Freedom is on the other side of that gate and yet we still can't manage to get through...!!! And, as we've come to expect everyone boarding the ship went through in minutes and there's Paul, standing like a convict before the Supreme Court Judge. "Is this your wife?" ... "Yes" ... "You can go". I was through.

The ships Purser arrived wondering where the last two passengers were. He muttered something under his breath like "unbelievable" and strolled off. There was no-one left in the building and still Paul remained standing in his 'prison' cubicle. All the documents were taken away...SHIT...they'll probably sneak the most important one out and say we don't have correct documentation. The Customs returned....they want money....OF COURSE THEY DO...!!!


Paul was eventually 'released'. We weren't yahooing or jumping for joy. It's not over yet...we still have to get the HORS on to the ship and it sails SOON. I headed towards the arse-end of the ship (no gangway here) and Paul went to the bike. Before he could even lay his hands on it he was surrounded by 'MEN IN BLACK'. Who they are we don't know but they weren't laughing, they were deadly serious and we knew they 'meant business'. These blokes would put Arnold SCHWARZENEGER to shame! All I could do was watch from a distance. The ships crew were waiting...they wanted to load, they were due to leave.

Out came all the documentation - AGAIN...!!! After some time Paul was 'escorted' into another building. He didn't come out. The Pursor came over and said we must load, we MUST sail...!!! SHIT...I couldn't even begin to imagine what might be happening behind closed doors.


With four minutes to go Paul exited the building, smiled and said "We're on", went to the bike and it bloody wouldn't start...!!! BASTARD OF A BIKE...!!! No time to waste. The crew helped him push it on and the ramps were raised.
Was it over yet...not quite. Turns out the 2nd mate decided our documentation wasn't correct and we needed to pay him for this oversight...!!! Paul told him to BUGGER OFF...!!!


Before we climber the stairs to the next deck the ship was sailing. WHEW, we only just made it...!!!

We still couldn't settle...there was a 10 second window of opportunity where they could've pushed the bike back onto the wharf. We ran to the back of the ship to see - no sign of the bike. That has to be a good sign...!!! Now we are expecting submarines to sneak up on us and bomb the shit out of the ship....!!!

Paul explained to me what happened behind 'closed doors'. Every document was read several times, thoroughly, by several people. One even brought his jewellers glass out to inspect the authenticity of the stamps! Oh, this is going to costs lots...!!! The longer they detain him, the more crucial everything becomes, the more money they can ask. We hate Ukraine...not Ukraine itself, but it's bureaucracy...!!!

Paul rang Oks and she must have given them 'what-for' because they then threw the papers Paul's way and he was told to go.


The best thing we've ever experienced is seeing Odessa and Ukraine disappear in to the distance.




WE THINK WE'VE WON...