FRIDAY 26th JUNE 2009 (ODESSA to IZMAIIL)

FRIDAY 26th JUNE 2009


We're both raring to go. Yesterday's rest did us the world of good. A twenty-four hour period of being relatively stress-free...!!!



We left DOM's at 10.30am with the aim of getting to the Romanian border. The bike now has 925 kms on the clock. It ran so well two nights ago that we felt 'almost' confident of making some miles.


However.....NINE kilometers up the road the bike was seriously popping, banging and surging (hey Henzell, these are technical words!) which meant parking up on the footpath yet again. Geez, we're not even half-way out of Odessa! The same problem we've always had reared its head again. What on earth is going on...??? Being an intermittent problem makes it difficult to find.


As is our luck within a couple of minutes Nicolai SUPRUGA rocked in on his 1949 ISH Planeta. He did a double-take when he saw us parked on the footpath and came to investigate. Not a word of English could he speak but before we could blink Paul somehow ended up on the back of his bike and they were off to some kind of market to get something that you pour in the tank, then shake and then he gesticulated madly which we took to mean it would lubricate the valves. Possibly upper cylinder lubricant which Paul had wanted to get. I did laugh at the two of them riding off. The little 'Planeta' had no passenger seat but I found our small blanket and Paul sat on that.


When they returned Paul said they rode up several back lane-ways until they came to a 'hidden' auto-mart with everything from CRC to 60mm spanners. Exactly what Paul had been looking for but had no hope of finding.


With our bike fired up Nicolai offered to show us the way out of Odessa - we appreciated that as signage is BAD, almost non-existent. It is now 1.15pm - so much for our reasonably early start!


Twenty kilometers out of Odessa the bike was playing up again - do we go back to Odessa where we know someone who can 'help' or do we persevere? Then, all of a sudden, Paul whooped as he discovered the problem. The fuel was boiling on the right cylinder before entering the head. With a tickle of the carb the bike picked up and away she went again. This is the side with the ammo box restricting the air flow around the cylinder.

Another 60 kilometers up the road Paul pulled into a servo to check the bike. It had a little shade and sold petrol but that was all. Paul proceeded to make a gasket for the tappet cover as the one made at the GOBLIN Rally leaked like a sieve. There was oil over the whole right side of the bike. The only thing we could find was some rubber tubing so that was cut to shape and inserted. There was a rubber gasket in situ originally.










On the road again, this time we are progressing along reasonably well at 50 kph with me tickling the carby very regularly! We knew we couldn't make the border tonight but were hoping at least to get to ISMAIIL. As we got closer and closer we felt a little more confident that the bike would actually be capable of carrying us through some interesting country over the next week or two.



That is until a funny noise was heard and Paul pulled over quick-smart as the letters S-E-I-Z-E-D ricocheted between our bulging eyes. And there we sat....

















Paul would kick the bike periodically to prevent the piston from being stuck in the bore and all we could do is wait till she cooled down. The sky was threatening BIG TIME and we just hoped that we were on the road again before it bucketed down on us. What am I talking about....we just hoped we'd be back on the road! We only had 20 kms to go before we reached Ismaiil.


And, like a good girl, the bike sprang into life and it was ridden ever-so-carefully the next 20 kms. And it DID bucket down on us - so much that we had to pull over - couldn't see a thing and the road became worse than a river.

















The first sign we saw was a 'bed' symbol and so we pulled up the side road to find ourselves at a truckies stop! It was pretty crappy but the chances of finding something in Ismaiil proper were slim too. Crappy or not, this is where we are staying as the next lot of threatening black clouds were looming FAST. We no sooner got our gear inside and down she came, heavier than the first deluge. We didn't care that our home for the night was less-than-ordinary. If we had gone on we would've been wet through. The night turned out a hoot. One of the truckies explained to us, using much waving around of arms, that to shower we must pull out the power lead that was heating the water, go and shower, come back, dry your hands very well and plug the lead back in - otherwise you will get ELECTROCUTED and DIE. No regard to OH&S but at least we were aware of the dangers!



The rain passed and we walked up the road a little way to a cafe-bar where we enjoyed an encounter with some of the locals. They'd never seen a foreigner before. Again, no verbal understanding arose between us but one of the fellows ordered us a bowl of SOLYANKA. We wondered what we would get and out came the most beautiful soup with vegies, meat, olives and lemon (among other ingredients). Gee it was good.


It was during the meal that Paul quietly announced that he's come up with a name for the bike - HORS (Heap Of Russian Shit). And so "The HORS" it is...

THURSDAY 25th JUNE 2009 (DOM PAVLOVIC's)

THURSDAY 25th JUNE 2009


With the intention of heading off and making some miles we woke up with less energy than a dead cat. It wasn't a hard decision to stay one more day and go no-where. Just stay put. Only downside is the place we are staying has no internet access and it would've been a good chance to catch up on blogging. On the other hand, it allowed us to rest.


Paul did a little tinkering on the bike (can't help himself). He wanted to balance the carbies and check nuts and bolts etc.


I spent well over an hour photographing the statues in the apartment grounds. There are also several goldfish ponds, turtles, swans and several dozen stray cats. Cats are everywhere in Ukraine. They've either just had kittens or just about to so I can't see a solution to the cat problem in the near future. Even the owners of cats have never heard of de-sexing...!!!










We had been staying at DOM PAVLOVIC's for nearly a week and never eaten in the open-air restuarant so decided we should do that. What made the night enjoyable was a Ukrainian Folk Group singing for their supper. No music, just vocals. They were great. What made the evening difficult was the fact that we could not read one thing on the menu - we asked the waiter what he recommended and he said shaslik was his favourite...and so shaslik it was.

We checked our bags and got everything packed ready for a not-so-early get-away in the morning - we wanted to wait till the traffic lessened.

WEDNESDAY 24th JUNE 2009 (LEGS)

WEDNESDAY 24th JUNE 2009


A day of hanging about until we could collect our bike at 6.00pm. Caught the trolley-bus into the city to wander the streets and see some 'more' sights. 'More' can refer to the magnificent architecture, the grand public spaces and gardens or the many long legs and stiletto's seen at every turn of the head.


My Russian phrase book makes more sense now. There is nothing that says..."How do you ask for help when your Dnepr has broken down in the middle of a busy multi-lane intersection with no lines and the rider has no idea where he's going...???" BUT....it does have a chapter on where to get your stiletto's fixed...!!! And no wonder as half the streets are cobble-stoned and I imagine very hard to walk on!















The gardens, squares, fountains and esplanades are just beautiful. But what was really nice was the fact that no cars are allowed in some of the streets in the city centre. It is very quiet, peaceful and wondering about the shops can be quite pleasant. There are dozens and dozens of street cafe's (al fresco of course) and several places where bands delighted us with their renditions of a classical 'this-or-that'.



A taxi to Oleg's and we arrived with an evening meal already set out in their outdoor eating area. Oleg & Laura really are special people and we can't thank them enough for their hospitality. Our translator was absent but we still managed to converse between puzzled looks and laughter.


When the time came to leave we were very happy to accept Oleg's offer of leading us back to where we were staying. We would never have found our way into the city but once past that all was familiar - just follow the trolley-bus tracks! YAY - home before midnight!


















This is Laura, Oleg and Oleg's mother Sveta. Thanks for everything.

TUESDAY 23rd JUNE 2009 (VODKA NIGHT)

TUESDAY 23rd JUNE 2009

After the stress of yesterday (late nights and police arrests - almost) a lazy morning was in order.

Back to the police arrest: Paul was pulled over randomly and once it was discovered he didn't have the appropriate 'technical passport' with him (he took the rego and ownership papers) then they got 'angry'. They babbled something at Paul which he had no idea about. When Vadym returned he explained very simply...."make the wind". WHAT...??? "Make the wind". God damn, don't you Australian's understand anything...!!! 'Make the wind' turned out to be the Ukrainian breathalyser - you blow into the policeman's face...!!! This is when we found out that Ukraine has a zero alcohol tolerance when driving. Bloody hell...!!!

We also found out that if Paul didn't pull over the police have the right to shoot him...!!! Double bloody hell...!!! And to think we rode through three police blocks only days earlier ignorantly congratulating ourselves on the money we saved...!!! Lots of police corruption with part of the fine going into State coffers, the other, probably larger bit, going into the policeman's pocket.

Today's plan was to go to Oleg's at 6.00pm so we decided to catch the trolley-bus into the city and post a parcel home (even that took one hour) and try and blog-on but time got away. We were STARVING so had a snack and before we knew it, it was time to get our taxi to Olegs. No blogging today.

We got to Oleg's and was greeted with the news that 'all was fixed with the bike'. Amazing how one's mood can lift with those 6 simple words! We arrived to a purring motorcycle. Oleg did lots of pointing, Vadym translated and we nodded and grinned as it was explained that the points backing plate, points, condenser and the odd wire or two were changed.

Oleg also had his 1952 Dnepr outfit in the drive-way - the two together looked great. Oleg's machine guns were brought out and we were shown how they were fitted. Paul took the bike up the road for a short test ride and all seemed to be in order.

We weren't allowed to take the bike as it is Ukrainian tradition to celebrate a success. There goes our plan for a quick getaway in the morning! The only thing Paul remembers is Oleg saying....Paul, drink...!!! A large bottle of NEMIROFF Vodka came out and it soon became apparent that we weren't going home until it was finished. Only Paul and Oleg were drinking! Paul, drink...!!! A bit of Russian whisky was thrown in for good measure but after Paul nearly needed resuscitating it was back to the vodka. Paul, drink...!!!

Drinking the Ukrainian way comprised a shot of Vodka followed by half a glass of water and then some food. Guaranteed no hangover in the morning. Laura provided a great spread of food, what we thought was far too much, but then we weren't wise in the ways of Vodka drinking! Amazing how Oleg's English comprehension and speech improved dramatically after a bottle of Nemiroff...!!!

But wait....the show is not over until Oleg has performed a karaoke session by singing a Russian bike song to us at a volume louder than an AC/DC concert.

Another late night taxi ride home.

MONDAY 22nd JUNE 2009 (OLEG PASSAITA & POLICE)

MONDAY 22nd JUNE 2009


Paul left by taxi into the BIG city to find a battery. The army fella's last night indicated a shop called VOSXOD can supply batteries. No-one in administration had heard of the street or shop but a taxi was called and Paul was on his way!


Not long after he left the 'military man' (Oleg) arrived with three friends and began pulling things apart on our bike. He seemed to know what he was doing, obviously well versed with these machines. Paul was soon back with a battery, but no electrolyte....that, apparently was too hard...!!! He did get a surprise to see Oleg. Nothing was said last night but apparently Oleg went home and decided to help us as there was probably no-one else in this city who would work on such a bike. LUCKY US.


Nothing apparent showed itself on the bike and so it was decided that the bike would be taken to Oleg's at 6.00pm . A young fellow called Vadym came to show Paul the way. They lent us a battery to get the bike from A to B. I decided to stay at the apartment and catch up on some writing (which didn't happen).


Enroute Paul was pulled over by the angry Ukrainian Police and just as they wanted to put him in gaol, Vadym returned as did Velodislav (who we'd met the night before). Does everyone in this city know us...??? The Police would not buckle, they were about to put the motorcycle under arrest when Velodislav negotiated a cash deal (quite substantial) so we could be on our way. Unbeknown to us, Velodislav turned out to be a doctor as well as a political cabinet minister.




Paul got to Oleg's LATE and STRESSED. He rang me and I caught a taxi to Oleg's which was on the other side of the city. When I arrived I found the head and barrel removed from the right side as the original barrel had corroded out and was leaking oil everywhere. Ignition coil, distributor, carbies, valve clearances, spark plugs and caps were all tested. The bike was assembled, started and still ran shit-house. At one o'clock in the morning we knocked off and it was decided that maybe the engine needs to be dismantled tomorrow...!!!







We caught a taxi home. We were numb and wishing we weren't here.

Thankyou Oleg and Vadym. Also thanks to Laura (Oleg's wife) and Julia (Oleg's daughter) for their hospitality.

SUNDAY 21st JUNE 2009 (ODESSA SIGHTSEEING & MEETING OLEG at GOBLIN)

SUNDAY 21st JUNE 2009

The day started with Deep Purple playing at full volume. The music doesn't seem to stop day or night.

We spent a lot of the morning with Bodya and we decided to see him off as he was riding back to Cherkassy today (for him, 7 hours on his 1953 M-72). He is such a nice fella and we appreciated his company and conversation - even though we both had difficulties with translation.

We then caught a trolley-bus into the city centre to explore and see some sights. It is a beautiful city with ancient buildings, beautiful architecture and manicured gardens. Horse and carriages were carrying people about the city, we had views out over the Black Sea and we could view the workings of the local port.

We didn't get back to the campground till well after dark (10.30pm) and immediately tried to find our Russian mates but they had packed up and left. Oh well, we are on our own again. On our way back to the room we couldn't believe our eyes when in the dim light we spotted a military M-72 outfit complete with machine gun. The rider and pillion were in full military regalia. Looked fantastic. Of course they didn't speak any English but we got the message across that we had a bike similar and were having troubles with it.

The rider (Oleg) and his friend who spoke a little English came to have a look. After a few kicks, and scratching his chin the bikes battery went totally dead and they left.

Now we have a bike that wont go and finding a needle in a haystack would be easier than finding a battery in Odessa...!!! And we still have the original, unsourced problem!

SATURDAY 20th JUNE 2009 (150 KILOMETERS to GOBLIN)

SATURDAY 20th JUNE 2009


Fingers duly crossed Paul kicked the bike and she started. We were so grateful. Maybe there is still a chance we could get to the GOBLIN show....but it's still 150 km away. That's a whole day's ride for us....on a good day...!!!

Away we went, slowly and hour by hour the bike continued to plod along. We reached the outskirts of Odessa at midday and decided to follow the bikes - we had no idea where the rally was, only that it was along the beach somewhere. Odessa is a city with 3 million people but we made our way in okay, even managed to get all the green lights. The city centre is so beautiful but Paul was more concerned that the bike was getting hot. We pulled over to rest under a tree and let the bike cool down. Little did we know we were only 2 kilometers from the rally site! Paul not feeling very well at all by now - tummy troubles!

Back on the bike, along the road and before we knew it Lera (who helped us on the highway yesterday) jumped across the trolley-bus tracks to greet us while we were stationary in the traffic. And to think we could sneak into Odessa unnoticed...!!!


We were very happy to turn into the gates of GOBLIN Motorcycle Rally. A strange set up on an oval with a large beach resort immediately behind. Everyone walked through this area to the beach which was within 20 meters of the campsite. We began to wander about and get our bearings and the first people we saw were the Ruskies who helped us yesterday. It was so nice to be known and recognized. Our stress levels have been fairly high.











Paul by now needed a toilet and so with fear and trepidation went inside a brick block that looked dreadful on the outside. His initiation to Odessa consisted of baring his all in a toilet block with no doors or walls and several holes in the ground and suffering the squirts while everyone walked past. He was not a happy camper!

It was hot, he was tired and the camp ground didn't look that inviting. The music was SO LOUD, Ukrainian punk-rock (not our favourite). We wandered through the resort area to see where the beach was. There were hundreds of motorcycles parked in this area but we decided to try our luck and get a room. When we are at our lowest ebb, something good always happens and we were able to get a nice room with shower and 'clean' toilet AND bed and still be part of the rally. The best of both worlds.




The afternoon was spent with Paul and the bike at the mechanics tent where they removed the sidecar and proceeded to fix oil leaks (a service provided by the rally organisers). The bike created much interest. Should you let Vodka fuelled Ukrainian/Ruskies work on old dunga's? We wondered about this but the experience wasn't a bad one.






The bike was eventually taken to outside our room and then we could unload and enjoy the rally, with Paul making the occasional dash to our room! Much of the evening was spent with our new-found Russian friends and we were happy to catch up with Bodya, our friend from Cherkassy.