FRIDAY 17th JULY 2009 (GALIBOLU to ECEABAT)

FRIDAY 17th JULY 2009


It was sort of sad to leave our grungy Otel and Galibolu. We had a fabulous meal of calamari last night and bumped into most people we'd met at the Industrial Estate. We felt like 'locals'.



We did promise to call in to the Industrial Estate to say hello-goodbye to some people on our way and that's exactly what we did. The people we wanted to see weren't there (typical) and some of the others we knew were glad to see that all was well. Of course we had to sit in the shade of the trees and partake in that all-time great Turkish custom of tea-drinking.


Funnily enough we met a fellow (Sam MERIC) who owned the Beach Kiosk at Warrnambool, Victoria - we know this cafe.

After numerous cups of tea (they are small) we finally left Galibolu at lunch-time and enjoyed a lovely ride along the banks of the Dardanelles Strait to ECEABAT. It's only a 40 kilometer ride but hey, WE DIDN''T BREAK DOWN...!!!





We thought we'd quit while we were ahead and found a GREAT Otel called CROWDED HOUSE. It's only one year old, clean, great staff, safe parking for our bike and perfectly located for tomorrow's plans.





We spent the afternoon relaxing
(I really should say
'sleeping') as the body and mind needed to rejuvenate a bit. So nice NOT to be sitting about in a workshop ALL day. We had our evening stroll, ate a very ho-hum meal, watched a wedding in progress (music is really, really bad) and the dancing is more like a mating dance from some tropical large-winged bird.


WE DIDN'T BREAK DOWN TODAY. YAY. We feel things are on the up and up as our holiday time draws closer to its final days. Typical...!!!

THURSDAY 16th JULY 2009 (GELIBOLU GENERATOR REPAIR)

THURSDAY 16th JULY 2009


Looking out the window at the beach didn't help our weary bodies and weary spirit liven up. We headed off in dread wondering what would happen today. Have to admit The HORS has nearly beaten us.


Before heading out the road we decided to check out the Galibolu Lighthouse, only 2 kilometers from the Otel. And you guessed it....the battery went flat AGAIN.



With no words spoken (we know the drill) Paul caught a taxi to the Industrial Estate and got the battery charged enough to enable us to get the bike there. This time we went to 'Yasar USTUNTAS Oto Elektrik'. He ran his ear over the bike and indicated the generator needed to be removed and pulled apart. But we HAVE had this tested - twice...!!! He's a man of few words and forty years experience particularly with 6-volt systems and insisted.


Paul removed the generator and Yasar dismantled it and tested the armature which is okay. He then connected a battery across the field coil to check the spark. (How am I doing Henzell?) Yasar shook his head and said ..."KAPUT" (a known word in any language!).


Paul was summonsed to follow and two doors down there just happened to be a coil winder (STAR BOBINA) who was busy with his own work but Yasar mentioned the 'Australian' word and Mr. Bobbin immediately stopped what he was doing and checked out the coil.


After the insulation was removed the fault was easy to see. The windings had been shorting internally in an intermittent fashion making it difficult to diagnose. The old bloke knew though.


This has answered or solved the battery discharge problem as the field coil and armature are directly connected across the battery (series generator) and with a much reduced number of windings in the field coil this was loading the battery and allowing it to discharge very quickly.


In about 10 minutes a new coil was wound (costing $17), dipped in shellac and hung to dry.



Tools were downed as it was lunch-time for the workers. We were directed to a small table and before us was laid a plate of Balik (fish) stew, hard-crusted bread, chai and watermelon on newspaper. WOW. These blokes were really looking after us.



A few hours later the coil was dry and Yasar tested it again, this time the smile on his face was promising. Paul reinstalled the generator and it immediately charged the battery. Even the charge light went out. Maybe, just maybe we have fixed the problem.












It was 8.30pm when we left Yasar's and then the hunt was on for a place to stay. Again, too late to make miles. We found the best grungy Otel right in the middle of town next to the fish market. It had the best views but I had concerns when we had to dodge the live wires in the corridor and then to find the toilet was situated at the end of the two beds - no walls, no privacy, no anything...!!! Interesting. Another exciting day over and done with at the Industrial Estate...!!!

WEDNESDAY 15th JULY 2009 (BANDIRMA to GELIBOLU)

WEDNESDAY 15th JULY 2009


What really happened....

We left Bandirma mid-morning as planned, except this time it REALLY happened! We were finally on the road in Turkey. Not as much fun as anticipated due to many miles of road works. With every car and truck passing us they almost stoned us to death...!!!

I did wonder about the unreadable 'DANGER' signs on the road but as we only approached 'what-ever it was' at snails pace I guess they never posed a great threat.


We forged on, The HORS traveling well at long last. We arrived at LAPSEKI just as the ferry was unloading. How fortunate because we wanted to cross the Dardenelles Strait to Galibolu (Gallipoli) and this saved us an hours wait. We rode straight on to the ferry and within two minutes we were on our way. We couldn't believe the number of large ships on this narrow strait. We counted a good dozen within sight on either side of the ferry.


Arriving at Galibolu was very exciting for me because of my interest in history. The ferry crossing only took 35 minutes; we parked up and had a late lunch before having a bit of a look around the village. On the way in we spotted a small road around the coast and pin-pointed the only apparent entry.


Galibolu is a small town with its main role being a ferry point for transports traveling from Europe to Asia. For the locals it's the local fishing market that gives this town its character.


How lovely it all was. The bike was running well; we were enjoying riding alongside the water and watching the kids dive-bombing off high platforms. At long last things seemed to be going our way ..... until ..... that all too familiar cough, splutter and S-T-O-P.


THE BATTERY WENT FLAT AGAIN...!!!

It has been difficult trying to fault find with a piece of string and a stick (figuratively) but most major parts have tested okay. We sat on the side of the road and then Paul got a lift into town with Huseyin & Fethi (friends of Adil's) and was taken to the Industrial Estate where the battery was put on charge. At least for me this was a pleasant place to be stuck on the side of the road. I was able to watch a small isolated cart on the wharf fill with mussels each time the divers came up with an armful. I had a 'non-conversation' conversation with an old bloke on his horse and cart. I did wonder which horse was the better...???


When the battery was charged Paul was returned to the bike and we rode The HORS (the one with wheels) back to the Industrial Estate.


The generator was removed once again and tested at a VW workshop. It tested fine. It was difficult for Paul to get anywhere near HIS bike when there were a dozen blokes all pitching in with the all important knowledge to make it go...!!!




Eventually the bike was pushed a couple of shops further along where Mustafa seemed to know all about 6 volt systems. He adjusted the regulator and almost immediately the bike behaved as it should with the generator charging correctly.


Huseyir & Fethi arranged accommodation for us at Otel HAMZAKOY which was like a beach resort (oh goodie my favourite!) but it was a roof over our head and safe parking for the bike. We were told we were lucky to get anything because it is peak tourist season so we were grateful for their help. We didn't arrive till 10.30pm - we were worn out and tired and just hoping that the continuing problem has now been solved.

( MUSTAFA, HUSEYIN, ALI (VW man) and FETHI )

WEDNESDAY 15th JULY 2009 (THEY SHOOT HORS'S DON'T THEY...???)

WEDNESDAY 15th JULY 2009

TUESDAY 14th JULY 2009 (BANDIRMA)

TUESDAY 14th JULY 2009


Following our usual Turkish breakfast of sliced meat, tomato, cheese and bread we had The HORS packed and we were ON OUR WAY. But before we could do any 'serious' miles Paul wanted to change the diff and gearbox oil. We only had to step out front of Otel CETIN and our friendly taxi driver summonsed someone over. Within minutes we had a young lad (Kerem) on the pillion seat and he was to show us the way to the Industrial Estate.

All going super when about 3 kilometers along The HORS coughed and died...oh no, not again...!!! Fortunately for us the young lad's father came along shortly after and took Paul and Kerem to a motorcycle shop to get the battery charged.

I remained on guard for just over an hour (my usual form of employment these days) and was entertained by the passing cars, many of whom stopped on the main road to take photos of our 'steed'...!!! Also, behind me was the Turkish Defence Airforce and every ten minutes two fighter jets would take off, the sound deafening - but exciting. There is SOOOO much power in those things.


A bit over an hour later Paul returned (without battery) but we were soon joined by Ilhan ORAL and a 12 volt battery which enabled us to get the bike to his shop half a kilometer back.

While the battery was charging the gearbox and diff oils were changed and then a serious look at why the battery continued to discharge. First off, the 'contactor' (regulator) was changed (we had a spare), but all tested okay.




Ilhan left on his KTM, using only the rear wheel till out of sight, but returned saying a 6-volt battery is hard to get. Eventually a new battery arrived but needed a few hours to be charged.

Ilhan had given us an enormous amount of time. His workshop was exceptionally clean and well laid out and Paul was most impressed with his mechanical ability. People came and went during the day, even the POLIS 'hung out' for a while. They showed 'real' interest in The HORS and were obviously motorcycle buffs. I think they test ride bikes during work hours...!!!


We were surprised to see many Japanese sports bikes - Honda and Suzuki. They look out of place in a country where the horse and cart is alive and well...!!! Big road-trail bikes are also very popular with many Transalps and an Africa-Twin making an appearance.

We gave Ilhan and his brother Erhan a small 'kangaroo badge' as a token of thanks and in return Ilhan tied a Turkish flag onto the rear rack. With no other faults seeming apparent we were set to go.

We needed to fuel up as there was still some daylight left (it's now 1740 hours) to make it part-way down the road. BUT.....before we even GOT to the petrol station the bike instantly stopped again. We are beyond swearing - we don't even speak! We silently got fuel, waited 10 minutes, kicked the HORS in the guts and limped back to 'Moto On Service'. And didn't they look surprised...!!!


The 'light machine' (generator) was dismantled and taken away for testing. The armature and field coil tested okay and so it was reinstalled on the bike. The wiring was examined and during this process the sidecar wiring was unplugged and 'bingo' the charge system worked fully. During investigations the one and only fuse turned out to be a by-pass fuse which means none of the wiring is protected and the fuse doesn't actually do anything. Good ol' Russian wiring...!!!

Once again we left Ilhan's shop with grateful thanks to him and his young apprentice (Savash) who was on work experience during school holidays. It was too late to head off so back to the grungy (but good) Otel CETIN.











(Young Savash with Erhan & Ilhan ORAL)




HAPPY 50th BIRTHDAY PAUL ...

MONDAY 13th JULY 2009 (ISTANBUL to BANDIRMA)

MONDAY 13th JULY 2009


With ferry tickets booked and confidence (!) in the bike we were ready to leave Istanbul. Our ferry tickets to BANDIRMA were booked but first there was a VERY important job to take care of - the ol' 'green card' vehicle insurance. Can't travel anywhere in this country without it.

Adil came to the Hotel and took Paul to the Insurance office on his Transalp - much easier to weave in and out of traffic. Adil is a 'fantastic' rider and was 100% on the ball when it came to negotiating the traffic - weaving in and out, up on the footpaths then back on the road, Paul only scraped his knee once on a car door...!!!


Paul did wonder how the 'green card' process might go (after being scared off with all things bureaucratic) but Adil's friend came to the party and all went okay. They were back at the Hotel by midday.


We said our goodbyes to Adil, packed, loaded The HORS - all set to go. The whole street came out to watch. Nurullah (our carpet man) said he can't wait for us to go as EVERYONE looks at The HORS....NO-ONE looks at his shop opposite...!!! We were told every evening that hundreds of people photographed The HORS during each day - it rivaled the Blue Mosque as a tourist attraction.



Paul kicked her in the guts and ....... NOTHING. Not one sound. A bit of investigation revealed the battery was FLAT. With half-an-hour to go before our ferry leaves we had to ring and re-book for the 6.30pm ferry. Of course they didn't understand English so Nurullah did the translation for us. Part of the conversation seemed to indicate that we bought ten carpets from him - he WAS holding our credit card...!!!



Lucky for us an 'electric man' was around the corner and the battery was removed and taken for charging. This has Paul worried - he knows something is draining the battery but has been unable to find the cause. But we also wondered with the hundreds of 'locals' sitting on and fiddling with the bike that this may of also caused the battery to go flat. Who knows?

Before long Adil returned to help - he went and collected our battery on his scooter. Meanwhile Paul checked the sidecar wheel bearings - not that happy with the situation because the sidecar swingarm has been welded crooked by about 20mm thus loading the sidecar wheel bearing which will cause the bearing to fail eventually. Is this why they have a spare wheel as 'STANDARD'...???



Before long all was back together. First kick and The HORS fired into life. Arrhh, what a good sound. We bid our farewells - AGAIN - and followed Adil to the ferry.






We caught the 6.30pm ferry to BANDIRMA which saved us a few hours on the road. We were surprised to see the ferry was made by 'Austal' in W.A. It was a very uneventful crossing, water smoother than a baby's, many ships in passing and eventually the islands and land mass of the far side of the MARMARA Sea appeared.




We disembarked, found a dingy, down-and-out, cheap 'Otel' up a steep, narrow street at the bad end of town and actually quite enjoyed it. The bike was safe right outside the booking office and the taxi stand was on the other side. We got talking to the taxi drivers and they loved The HORS and would look after it for us.





And so, another day of travel over and done with.

Distance ridden - about 10 kilometers...!!

SUNDAY 12th JULY 2009 (ISTANBUL - BASILICA CISTERN)

SUNDAY 12th JULY 2009

Last day in Istanbul. We were ready and wanting to get back on the bike but felt we should take one more day to visit 'New Istanbul'.

The day began with Nurullar (our carpet man) serenading me outside our window with his 'air' violin. A good way to start any day - laughing.

By accident we learnt about an underground cistern worthy of a visit. And we weren't disappointed. The Basilica CISTERN dates back to 527-565. Water is channeled from the Bulgarian Hills and stored in this 140 x 70 metre 'well'. There are 336 marble columns with thousands of fish swimming at their base. When 'tap-water' became popular this structure was forgotten and only rediscovered when historical research became more common. Buckets were lowered through well-holes in order to obtain the water.

We caught the train and traveled to it's furthest point then caught the underground tram up to the top of the hill, the beginning of ISTIKLAL street. It's a long walk and we started off excited but it soon became like another street in another city, except for the underwear shop...!!!

We much prefer the down-and-out market places. Fortunately for us the street eventually narrowed and became far more interesting....and STEEP. It was the home of the music bazaar with dozens of instrument shops (we were thinking of you Mr. Piles). It was hard enough walking 'down' this street and I wondered why anyone would choose to walk 'up' it - but they did.

From here we crossed the Galata Bridge being careful not to get hooked on any of the hundreds of fishing lines being used. Ferry boats by the dozens were going back and forth and people by the thousands doing the same - it never stopped.

Once on the other side we made our way through the bus station gathering place (again hundreds of people) but nothing prepared us for the underground walkway to get from one side of the road to the other. Paul went first and I lost him within 3 seconds...!!! I figured he'd wait at the other end. It must have taken 10 minutes just to get through this small passage!

Our aim was to revisit the Spice Bazaar (or Egyptian Bazaar) and glad we did - our noses were in heaven. Being Sunday the Grand Bazaar was closed and it was good to walk up through the narrow laneways completely empty of people. Once at the top of the hill we followed the train tracks back down to 'home'. On the way we found ourselves at a dedicated 'smoking' house with about 100 people puffing away on their water pipes. The air was sweet (and thick) with the scent of smoke.

Late afternoon Paul checked the bike in readiness for our departure tomorrow. Before long everyone from the street gathered around. Even Nurallah got his hands dirty helping with checking oils, etc. He loved it. The bike was even cleaned...!!!

Our evening stroll took us only two blocks from where we were staying - here we discovered a whole new world of cafe's, smoke rooms, hostels and a very active street life. We had no idea it was even there. And that's the beauty of Istanbul. She never stops revealing her secrets, even though they are only a hands-width away...