FRIDAY 19th JUNE 2009 (UMAN & RUSSIAN RESCUE)

FRIDAY 19th JUNE 2009


Paul spent the entire morning working on the bike dismantling the carbs and checking the points. We were lucky - under the shade of a large tree and a tall concrete wall between us and the road with a ledge at bum height. This served as our workbench and seat. We were situated in a secure car-park and truck depot which was as grotty as grotty gets. I desperately needed a toilet and figured the experience would be dreadful. I wasn't disappointed. It made the worst of India look clean...!!!

We were on the road by midday, the bike still not real happy but we were willing to take the chance rather than stay in Uman. Our destination is Odessa, 260 kilometers away.

We pulled in at a fuel station 42kms along the road and Paul rechecked everything. The old girl (not me) did not sound happy. We let her cool down and continued on the road. If we didn't, we'd never get to the motorcycle rally where there might be people who can direct us to 'real' help.

We only rode another 20 kilometers when the bike slowed and slowed and slowed (which is saying something seeing as we were only traveling at 40 kph) and eventually konked out on a long incline. SHIT. We have never felt so isolated.
The 'new' battery had died. Not a good situation to be in on a Ukrainian highway with cars and bikes speeding past us at 250-300 + kph.

It was decided that Paul would hitch back to the service station and I would play 'guard dog'.



Eventually a bike pulled up - WOW, how extraordinary (no-one had bothered to stop in over two hours). A young woman (Lera) from Kiev and her man (Volodja) from Uman - nice people. Within minutes another two bikes pulled up. My eyes nearly fell out of my head (thinking to myself, geez - Paul will be disappointed he missed this...). Two rather attractive, young women dismounted from their Ural choppers, one dressed in a mini skirt, the other in a t-shirt tied up to reveal her belly button jewellery. Interesting safety gear. Before long some more bikes pulled in, Paul on the back of one of them. They were from Russia (the girls from the Wild Cats, Volgograd). Much kicking, much pushing, and then jumpering off a 12-volt into our 6 eventually saw us on our way. We had spent a total of 4 hours on the side of the road. We were sent on our way with the Russian equivalent of 'MORE REVS, MORE REVS'.




We knew when we had to stop again that we may not get going so just rode and rode till dark pulling up at a road-side stall. The man there (Vasja) indicated that the abandoned building across the track would be opened later and we could get borsch (it was now 10.30pm!). He was right - we sat on the side of the road till midnight and then the woman came to open up and give us a bed. The message was given that we needed a battery charger and one was duly brought to us, albeit the first charger to ever have been built in the world...!!!

THURSDAY 18th JUNE 2009 (CHERKASSY to UMAN)

THURSDAY 18th JUNE 2009



TODAY'S THE DAY - ready or not. Roman came around at 10.00am (not too bad for him as he had promised 9.00). Payment for everything was made. Paul not happy again as he had to pay for parts that were replaced due to incompetence and many of the parts were promised to be replaced free-of-charge. It left a bitter taste....but we just want to leave. Question anything and we get a different answer each time. Some of this is due to language difficulties, some of it due to bad management practice, some of it due to us not standing up for ourselves enough...!!!



Anyway, we got to the bike just before midday with our gear and we proceeded to figure out where everything would go. We were ready to leave by 2.00pm when Roman suggested a farewell lunch. We hadn't eaten so figured we'd have a quick lunch then leave. It's the only lunch we had that WASN'T quick....!!!




WE WERE FINALLY ON OUR WAY at 3.00pm. Destination was a town called Uman, 200 kilometers to the south-west. We were very happy to be on our way and finally out of the city.


Starting our trip we were a bit nervous as we figure we will be in for some trouble - hopefully later rather than sooner...!!!


We made the first 150 kilometers okay (at a speed of 20-40 kilometers). Slow speed due to tabs in the carbies preventing them from fully opening during the running-in period). Ludicrous comes to mind but we must listen to the ones that know...!!!



We limped the last 50 kilometers to Uman, arriving at 11.00pm. Riding by silhouette is not much fun - we had no lights (so much for the electrical master). The bike was running on one cylinder and choking to death. We met up with Oleg BASHKATOV (by prior arrangement) who had an apartment lined up for us. We were grateful for this as we were worn out with the struggle of riding flat strap at 20 kph.

WEDNESDAY 17th JUNE 2009 (ANTON KOVONEV's)

WEDNESDAY 17th JUNE 2009

Another day in downtown Cherkars. Getting frustrated now...!!! We were told to be ready by 9.00am, possibly 10.00am but we weren't holding our breath - we're beginning to learn the drill...!!!

It took Paul a long time to convince the people concerned that he really wanted to go to the bike and see for himself what was happening. I chose to stay at home as I figured it would be another long session of sitting around for the WHOLE afternoon.

When Paul got to Igor's there was no Igor and no bike. He soon learned that the bike was taken to Anton KOVENEV's place - a well respected mechanic. He was also a friend of Bodya's which pleased us as he is the only person we've met that Paul has any faith in.

Tony's 'shed' is situated in the Industrial side of town and all around is thick with pollution. BUT...he had a reasonably set-up garage (with tools) and so work began on the bike. When the job was finished Paul was able to ride out (with Igor and Roman as passengers) but they only rode 50 meters and then the (bloody) exhaust cross-over pipe blew off...!!! Bottom line...Paul was back in the garage till midnight repairing the 'new' problem and tuning the bike.

What on earth is going to happen next...???



TUESDAY 16th JUNE 2009

The bike is in pieces again due to a rear diff leak caused by corrosion on the uni joint as these were obviously assembled dry at the factory - sitting around for 40 years hasn't helped either!



When we arrived at Igor's everything was spread over the drive-way and we thought we'd never get to leave Cherkassy!



The seal was replaced and corrosion removed, then reassembled, only to strip one of the mounting studs during the process. An 'electrical master' came by to inspect the charging system. Paul couldn't seem to get the message across that he CAN do all this. Serge, the master, fiddled with wires and replaced the generator. All appeared okay (but this was to be proven incorrect in the following days). Hours slipped by and it was 7.00pm before the daily 'technical survey' could take place.



FIVE kilometers up the road during the test ride smoke surrounded the bike and it was soon apparent the brake had been adjusted incorrectly and over-heated the rear hub and diff to the point of melting the other seals. (Paul is now SUPER-HAPPY...NOT, NOT, NOT). "We had to sit it out on the side of the road till the parts concerned cooled enough to allow us to ride back to Igor's."





Parts needed were ordered from Kyiv and were to come to Cherkassy on the overnight bus. Stay tuned...

MONDAY 15th JUNE 2009 (FISHING & LEAKING DIFF's)

MONDAY 15th JUNE 2009


Wonder if we'll leave today...??? We have our doubts! We wandered up to the market, this time taking more time to see the sights. Much to Paul's delight he found a section 'out back' that sold tools, plumbing equipment, electrical items and anything else you'd find in a run-down hardware store. There are only so many fruit and vegie stalls one can look at.


We were being picked up at 10.00am to go to Igor's for our long-awaited 'technical survey'. Our bags were packed and we were ready to go (again). As we have come to expect 10.00am came, 11.00am came and just before midday Roma and Svet arrived. All we can do is STAY CALM...!!!
We hadn't anticipated much of our time being spent inside an apartment watching Ukrainian TV...!!!
Roma's computer came out....this time they began 'work' attending to emails, etc. We sat politely for a while then retired to the lounge to wait it out. The plan made last night is that we would depart at 8.00am this morning! Obviously way off base with our interpretation.


Svet, Paul & I went for lunch at a genuine Ukrainian 'old-time' restaurant 'BARENYCHNA' and the food was the best we've had. Most enjoyable. Borsch and dumplings. In fact, for a while there things looked up.



Mid-afternoon we were taken (by yet another taxi) to meet a fellow who restores war memorabilia. Michel KYRYLUK is a true craftsman. There are many items found regularly in the surrounding district as this is where many large battles were fought, many soldiers died and their effects have remained buried. The helmets and guns are badly corroded but to see the process of bringing them back to life was great.


As we were leaving we were surprised by Anatoli (our bikes original registered owner). We were very pleased to see him. He is such a genuine and sincere man and he again wished us the very best for our travels and gave us a tub of honey that 'he grew' from his own beehives.


Time is marching on and obviously too late to leave Cherkassy today! We were informed that we are now going fishing...!!! (Had to delete the words typed in this space!). We had been asked three times and three times we'd declined. So now, we are going! Volodya BRUS drove us to the Dnipro River. As it turned out it made a refreshing change to be out by the water and the trees, watching the birds fly and the fish jump (but not on to our hook!). After about two hours I figured we weren't going home until we caught a fish. FINALLY, it happened and we were on our way to Igor's for 'technical survey' (test ride). Time - 8.00pm!


It was decided that Igor (who has no licence) would ride, Roman would be pillion and Paul would sit in the side-car. After some miles on the country roads Paul would ride the bike back. I remained with Igor's wife and son (Tanya and Roma) along with a trusty English-Russian dictionary. Amazing what you can learn from someone when you don't speak their language!


I heard the bike return and soon learned the mirror had fallen off (this is the second one), the bike would not charge the battery and the rear diff leaked BADLY. Another night time session working on the machine! I was given a tiny stool to sit on and watch proceedings.
I was also told that the bike was uncomfortable and it wouldn't go over 40 kph as it had a tab in the carby preventing the slides from raising fully and preventing over-revving during the 'breaking in' period. Without a word passing between us we both came to the conclusion this bike might not even make Odessa let alone the route we had planned!

A pleasant distraction was when a small hedgehog appeared - WOW. B-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l. That made my night. Apparently hedgehogs are very common.



We got home at 11.30pm and Paul's first words were..."I need a beer". He went and got one and we sat silently in our apartment. We are nearly a quarter of the way through our holiday and not one mile has been ridden!
We had expected some complications from an old bike that has been sitting in storage for 41 years but never anticipated the difficulties and conditions which these nice people must work in. They ARE doing their best to help. Roman works overtime trying to make things right, Igor works on the bike well into the night and Bodya always seems to be available. Thanks fella's. Afterall, it is much better to have these problems sorted here than somewhere on an isolated road.
MAY BE TOMORROW...

SUNDAY 14th JUNE 2009 (BODYA & THE RIDING LESSON)

SUNDAY 14th JUNE 2009


Today was the day we planned to leave Cherkassy. We had studied the map and worked out our route. We found out about a LARGE motorcycle rally in Odessa, on the Black Sea, where motorcyclists from all over Europe congregate. What they do we don't know but figured it was our duty to find out.
We did a quick jaunt up to a local market to get something for breakfast. Our food stocks had been depleted and we hadn't bothered stocking up as we were leaving. All we found was some bread and some tomato. That will do. We didn't have a lot of spare time. Our bags were packed. Roman was going to collect us at 11.00am so Paul could do 'technical survey' on the bike. We waited and waited and eventually the door bell rang at 2.00pm! Roma set up his computer and we got to see photos of his family (great-grandparents, grandparents, mother, god-mother, uncles and aunts, etc!) and many photos of the Cherkassy area. All very nice but when are we going to test ride the bike...??? We have been in Cherkassy 4 days and Paul has ridden the bike 50 meters in first gear!


We found ourselves at Igor's late in the afternoon and we learned that Bodya was coming around to give Paul a riding lesson. It began to rain heavily. Paul was not keen to go out in that weather. It soon passed though and Bodya on his 1953 Dnepr M-72 and Paul as pillion took off. I learnt that Bodya was a 'bit of a rebel', 'bad on the bike'! They soon returned and Paul was as happy as. He reckoned Bodya was a good, skilled rider and enjoyed the ride and understood his Ukrainian explanations of what to do with these bikes.
Another taxi was hailed and I was ushered in and Paul was told 'no'. Jeez, what's happening now? Turns out Bodya was taking Paul on the M-72 and I was going home in taxi. Part way along the road I realised that this is not the road to our apartment - I've learnt now not to ask too many questions! A few minutes later we end up at a cafe on the outskirts of town where we were about to experience a Ukrainian barbecue. Bodya, Paul, Roman and myself sat outside with the stray dogs (nice dogs) and enjoyed some of the best meat we have tasted.
Back home just on 10.00pm.
Imagine how Paul is feeling - no bike, no red wine, no Ukrainian version of Just Bikes...!!!


On another note, happy 50th birthday Aldo.

SATURDAY 13th JUNE 2009 (CHERKASSY & FAMOUS 'URAL' RIDER)

SATURDAY 13th JUNE 2009


Our day began with an early morning phone call to say we must vacate the apartment by midday! Well that came as a surprise! We had almost settled in to down-town high-rised apartment living...!!!

We packed our bags and waited for Roman to come, the door-bell rang but it was the owner of the apartment. Bugger. We started loading up our backpacks but he indicated that we could wait in the apartment. Meanwhile, Roman was busy finding us another place to stay.

We were eventually taken to our second apartment where we had to wait for half-an-hour for the owner to arrive.

Once we settled in and gave Roman and Svetlana their presents from Tasmania we then wandered up the road to the local market. We were surprised they were closing so early - we didn't realise that it was nearly the end of the working day. Another day almost over and no motorcycle miles under our belt...!!!




We had 'lunch' at 6.00pm then walked to the 'Hill of Glory' dedicated to the end of WW2. Good view of the Dnipro River from here. This river freezes in winter (temperatures here get to minus 30 in winter) and cars and bikes drive out on to the river to fish in the small areas not frozen. The ice can be a meter thick!


We finally went to Igor's (our mechanic) to 'make inspection'. The ammo box has been fitted, the bolts checked, a carby replaced due to corroded seat, throttle cable replaced and electrical system checked. Igor is being very thorough as he does not want us to break down tooooo many times...!!!



Just as we thought we were going home we ended up waiting at a bar for a 'famous' Ural motorcycle rider who wants to meet us. Turns out famous is 'well known' and we were looking forward to meeting someone else with a genuine oldie. Weren't we surprised when a lime-green Ural chopper complete with painted skulls on tank rocked in...!!! Alexander and wife Marina were very nice people. We were soon joined by Bodya ROMANENKO on his 1953 Dnepr M-72 complete with German helmet, camouflage pants and leather cut-of. Certainly looked the part (straight out of the 1940's).




We eventually got back to our apartment and again collapsed in to sleep. How can you get so tired not riding...???

FRIDAY 12th JUNE 2009 (KORSUN)

FRIDAY 12th JUNE 2009



We were picked up at 7.00am by Roman & Volodya, we then got Svetlana (our lovely translator) and driven an hour west to Korsun to see the 'Korsun-SHEVCHENKIVSKYI State Historical & Cultural Reserve'. This is an old palace full of WW2 memorabilia, focusing on the battle that took place in this region in 1944 when the Ruski's defeated the Germans. Tens of thousands of men were lost in this battle. The displays were quite explicit about the loss of life. Hard to imagine we were standing on the site of such a battle. In the gardens were many tanks, a mig jet fighter, many guns and military trucks.


En-route to Korsun we passed two outfits, one being a Jupiter (or Ish) with a sidecar full of rakes and the other outfit was a Dnepr. Both were traveling at the mandatory 50-60 kph...!!! This is a rural area and they were perhaps on their way home for morning tea.





Back in Cherkassy by lunch time where we visited Igor to check progress on the bike. We were told it would be ready by 5.00pm tomorrow.


All Paul wants to do now is get on the bike and get going as we have a huge distance to cover, considering we can only travel at 60kph.


Roman has been very good to us ensuring that we have all necessary (and compulsory) spare parts for our journey.


We were driven back to our apartment at 4.30pm and we were grateful for some rest time and fell asleep. Woke for tea (muesli and beer). We didn't want to go down the street so used up what we had. Beer here is cheap, for example, a Stella Artois costs 90 cents for 500mls. Red wine on the other hand is very expensive.


Petrol is 90 cents a litre. We have been advised to use a maximum octane rating of 80 and if it's not available thin it down with diesel...!!!